Come and cook Vietnamese with me #giveaway #foiredautomne #lappartelier

[SNIFFKISS] If you have been around lately in Paris, you may have noticed that Foire d’Automne has started  and will last until 2nd of November.  L’appartelier – kitchen to rent- has set up a tremendous programme of cooking classes .

ImpressionEveryday comes with a new angle : ” How to impress  friends”, “Trompe l’oeil”,”Wander in the garden”, “Street Food”, “Carte blanche to bloggers”…  For the detailed programme click  here

I will join the team on Saturday November, 1st for the “Carte blanche to bloggers” session. 5 cooking workshops are planned. Detailed programme here

If you like Vietnamese food but don’t know where to start, why don’t you join me at 6 pm : 10 “active” seats (cook and taste) + 40 “spectators” seats (the class will be broadcasted live on a big screen). First arrived, first served ! :)

On the menu: Autumnal “Goi” ! It consists in a traditional Vietnamese salad, adapted to feature local and seasonal ingredients. Although adapted, it goes with the typical and traditional flavours. Very easy, healthy, but most importantly delicious recipe !

Pear, radish, carrot goi http://wp.me/p3iY4S-6r

Pear, radish, carrot goi http://wp.me/p3iY4S-6r

You will call me a purist if you want, but I am very strongly attached to share what accounts for the traditional smell & taste feelings of Vietnamese cuisine. It is a subtle, aromatic, light and delicious cuisine that traditionally calls for a lot of fresh herbs and vegetables, all minutiously prepared and combined. Influences from China, India, France blend together in a very unique way. Combinations of ingredients, flavours, textures tell a lot about Vietnamese history and are also a testimonial of traditional medicine. From North to South, Vietnamese cuisine varies a lot. As for the imperial delicacies from Hue they are by themselves a full chapter.

Vietnamese food is so much more than Pho and Banh Mi… which tend to become more popular in Paris right now. Although I am delighted that people discover and like this food, I am still cringing when Pho is served with mint (like basil with pot of feu??!!). Besides I can’t help sighing when I see Bo Bun with shrimps/chicken.. because Bo Bun litterally means Beef Vermicelli.. ( You just learnt 2 words of Vietnamese!:)) So come and share a glimpse of Vietnamese (food) soul..By the way Minh Tam from la kitchenette de Miss Tam will precede me and teach you how to prepare “Banh Khot”

GIVE AWAY : to participate  1) share this post 2)write in below comments or send me by email at  carnetbydao@gmail.com if/why/ what you love in Vietnamese cuisine… v…Drawing lot, good luck!

Enjoy your week!

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Earl Grey jelly, kumquats and salted butter caramel

Caramel beurre salé

Caramel beurre salé

[LOVE TIP] Yesterday night I had a bunch of friends coming from all over the world for dinner. From Belgium, Poland, Russia, Holland, to USA and Italy, without forgetting to mention 2 “bananas” (yellow outside, white inside) from Vietnam and Tahiti… It is sometimes complicated to concile all tastes but all went very smoothly. Such a perfect night with tons of aromatic herbs, garlic and sweets…

We shared :

- A glimpse of Thailand with a pumpkin and carrot soup fragranced with lemongrass, ginger, lime, curcuma and lime leaves.  

- A tour in Vietnam with Banh Xeo : Vietnamese savoury pancakes . Filled with bean sprouts, shrimps, pork and served with tons of salad, pickles and fresh herbs (mint, cilantro, thai basil). It’s a bit long to prepare and calls for tons of ingredients but is totally worth it.. at the end we set aside fork and knive and did proceed as in Vietnam with fingers..to roll pancakes in salad 

banh xeo

banh xeo

For dessert, we were lucky enough to taste a Pithivier and  Bourdaloue tart, kindly prepared by Manuela – currently training at Ferrandi school to become a pastry chef. As for me I prepared a Earl Grey jelly, sliced some kumquats and added .. yes… salted butter caramel sauce. If agar agar may be something of an acquired taste, this caramel sauce is a total success with everybody!

caramel beurre salé 2

So here is the recipe..

Salted caramel sauce

Caramel au beurre salé

Caramel au beurre salé

For 250g of caramel: 7 tbsp of sugar, 8 tbsp of water, 2 generous ss of butter, 8 ss of liquid cream, 2 pinches of salt (fleur de sel)

1- Mix water and sugar and take it to a gentle boil until it caramelizes.

2- Add the butter and cream. As the caramel is very hot, it may cause some projections, beware . Mix at smooth temperature until desired consistency (It took me around 10 minutes). Note that when it cools down, it thickens a little more.

3- Ready! You can enjoy this sauce as well with chocolate, as a spread or byitself..

caramel beurre salé 5

 

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Give me some extra taste! #vegetalbacon

[SNIFFKISS] I confess. I love bacon. As a Vietnamese girl I was raised with lots of pork : caramel pork, nems, banh cuon are part of my heritage if not DNA!

Little by little I have started to replace fresh bacon with less fatty meats , then replaced it with combinations of tofu, mushrooms, roots veggies and observed it worked quite well (see my recipe here of veggie banh cuon, so delicious..:)

Today I’m sharing with you 5 aromatic bouquets that are my vegetal bacon and are ideal to cook in automn..

baconvg1

 

1- Smoked jujubes 

Bacon végétal jujubes fumées

baconvg7

If you like plums roasted with bacon, you will fall for smoked jujubes. You will be instantly transported in the mountains, by a chimney fire. Brilliant for a marinade : with badian, soy sauce, 5 spices and honey. Try it with pumpkin, beyond delicious!

 

 

 

 

2- Lapsang Souchong Tea 

baconvg6One of my friend used to say “I love this tea, It reminds me of tea infused with bacon.. ” This will do wonders in winte. I infuse it in broths or marinades Try it with pear and turnip cooked like in a tatin. Recipe here

 

 

 

 

3- Dashi : a delicacy

baconvg4

Dashi is to be bought as a powder (unless you have 24 hours and are willing to prepare it overnight…). Prepared out of kombu and dry bonite, it is highly concentrated in umami. To be used in risotto or broths instead of regular salt. I also like to combine it with sesame seeds and nori. A perfect treat with plain white rice.

 

 

4- Liquorice and shitakés , dry and woody flavor 

réglisse et shitakés

réglisse et shitakés

Shitaké is also naturally rich with umami and is frequently in vegan diet to replace meat. Infused with liquorice it will bring out a dekicious deep and long-lasting fragrance. Try the Thai veggie burger Recipe here The 1st time I served it, I was asked for a second service..Be prepared to run back in the kitchen!: )

 

5- Smoked chili

I found some addictive smoked chili at Olivier Roellinger’s shop, but I guess all smoked paprika will do. With corn on the cob, add scallion oil, salt, smoked chili and cilantro. For breakfast or as a snack, this is easy comforting food!

What about you? what do you add to spice up your food?

Enjoy your week-end!

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Pavlova with vanilla, tonka and pomegranate

[SNIFF KISS]  I have always loved pavlovas. They weren’t so popular in Paris before so my first memories of pavlovas are linked with Hong Kong and London. I recall having them there with mango and passion fruits…This version comes with swirls of meringue, whipped cream flavored with vanilla and tonka, juicy crimson red pomegranate seeds .. It looks like a very festive dessert but is actually quite simple to prepare…This is my first attempt and I asked myself after why I didn’t give a try before!

tourbillon2.png.jpg

 

Recipe (for 4) 

30′ of préparation + 1h of baking. Meringue can be prepared the day before and stored in a dry box

Meringue: 3 eggs, a pinch of salt, 120g of icing sugar, 1 tbsp of maizena, 1 tbsp of white vinegar or lemon juice.

Cream33 cl of whole liquid cream as cold as possible, 1 tbsp of vanilla extract, grated tonka (half almond)

One pomegranate 

1. Whisk up the whites with the pinch of salt. Add sugar little by little, then maizena and vinegar come at the end. These 2 ingredients are not compulsory but they will make your meringue very mellow in the inside. When the whites form shiny stiff peaks, you know it is ready

2. Preheat the oven at 3. I chose to do one single big meringue rather than 3-4 individual ones. Shape a big disk of 15 centimeters. Bake for one hour. As this was the first time, I set my oven too hot (at 4) and as a result the meringue became amber. The oven should only dry the meringue… Open every 20′ will help release humidity. After one hour, cut the heat, open the oven and let the meringue cool inside the oven. Note that even if the meringue was not perfectly white, the texture was perfect : crispy on the surface and a bit chewy inside…

3. Prepare the whipped chream:  As the meringue is already quite sweet, I chose not to add sugar but only vanilla and tonka that will bring their natural goodness..

4 To serve: on the meringue comes the whipped cream and a large handful of pomegranate seeds. Enjoy!

This was perfect to banish Sunday’s night blues!

pavlova vanilla tonka pomegranate

pavlova vanilla tonka pomegranate

 

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I want it strongly gingered please! The top 5 combinations and recipes

[NUTRIgastronomie] Heard this week-end at KB shop, the hipster Australian coffee located at the cross of rue des Martyrs and Trudaine : “I want my juice strongly gingered please.. How much ginger do you put? because at home it’s never as good as yours.. “

I was thinking “move on… If you don’t feel it gingered enough, why don’t you double the dose.. this is it.. move on…” But I must admit that NOW is the right season to have a lot of ginger. Autumn’s weather gets humid and ginger will dry and warm your body. It is also a strong natural antiseptic (reason why it has been used a lot in fish and seafood recipes in China, in addition to its aromatic properties). And all yogi who sipper liters of ginger tea  know the quick it brings.

So if you would like to include more ginger in your diet now, let me share with you  my TOP 5 gingered combinations and recipes

Ginger cream and Vitamin C shoot http://wp.me/p3iY4S-6y

Ginger cream and Vitamin C shoot http://wp.me/p3iY4S-6y

 

1. Orange Gingermagic cream You must be familiar with orange-carrot-ginger juices.. You can substitute orange with grapefruit. Combining the freshness of agrums with aromatic freshness of ginger can’t go wrong. And if you like panna cotta, you’ll love this: ginger juice naturally condenses hot milk like a cream! Try this ginger cream and shoot of Vitamin C.  Click on the pic for the recipe

 

 

Salade poire, betterave, gingembre, tête de moine

Salade poire, betterave, gingembre, tête de moine

 

 

2. Pear and ginger : assemble a quick and easy salad with raw beetroot, pear,  grated ginger,some hard cheese (here I used flowers of Swiss Tete de moine), lemon juice and olive oil. Natural sweetness of beetroot and pear are balanced by the sharp lime juice and ginger tang. Hard cheese brings the savoury side and lots of umami

 

 

 

 

Sweet and sour shellfish consomme, lemongrass and ngo om http://wp.me/s3iY4S-538

Sweet and sour shellfish consomme, lemongrass and ngo om http://wp.me/s3iY4S-538

3- Tomato , ginger, lemongrass: are the key ingredients of “canh chua” the traditional Vietnamese sweet and sour soup . It also includes ngo om (vegetal cumin), fish and sea food. Don’t forget cilantro and fried shallots for all flavors to be complete. I know, cooking is true love…

 

 

 

 

 

4. CHAI : ginger, cinnamon,cardamom, pepper, clove compose the delicious  blend used for chai tea, to be drunk with or without milk. This CHAI blend will also be fantastic with… chocolate ! Click on the picture to collapse into this vegan recipe of Chocolate cream à la royale.

 

anti inflammatory curcuma,walnut ginger band aid http://wp.me/p3iY4S-zq

anti inflammatory curcuma,walnut ginger band aid http://wp.me/p3iY4S-zq

5 ANTI-INFLAMMATORY : ginger, curcuma and walnut oil. For all those who suffer from sport injuries and tendinitis, don’t forget that natural food can do wonders. To limit further inflammation, cut on red meat and dairies (and alcohol and sugar of course). Here is an edible band-aid to savour on vegan semolina

 

 

 

 

 

TIPS

- I use a Japanese grator to obtain very finely grated ginger 

- I never use dry ginger. Fresh ginger has a distinct aroma and keeps well in the fridge. Choose well! 

- If you can find young ginger at your local oriental shop, it is very juicy and good. Try it!

So… are you ready for more ginger? What’s your favorite recipe?

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Femme by Rochas : Roasted plums with cardamom, cinnamon and osmanthus

[My MADELEINE] Do you know  Femme by Rochas? This fragrance is still considered by most parfumers as a masterchief they would have loved to create, along with Mitsouko by Guerlain. Both of them opened the path to a whole olfactive family : the fruity chypres.

Now with all the launches happening, Rochas has lost its share of voice…While its current reformulated version overpowered by cumin does not serve it well. Sadly this may  not help its revival…

Still there is a legend behind the curtains…

rochas1

Created in 1944 par Edmond Roudnitska (author of most fragrances for Christian Dior) for Marcel Rochas , this fragrance was conceived around a soft and dense plum note (méthyl-ionone). Unique and audacious this fragrance was launched  after the war and was right away acclaimed by the most refined women of Paris.

In 1989 Olivier Cresp (creator of Angel by Mugler) revamped the fragrance. The objective was to rejuvenate it  so as to please younger women. Technically this formula is shorter and contains more bergamot to push freshness. At the same time and curiously this version seems to be the oldest one : the way rich and noble raw materials have been embedded speak of the golden age of classic parfumerie. I am totally hooked by this formula because all ingredients are harmoniously blended. No dissonance. No loud spice calling for attention. It is a very captivating and elegant translation of sheer elegance combined with sensuality. Such a pitythat the current version had to erase this wonderful recomposition..

A vintage olfactive session.. I was lucky enough to join an outstanding olfactive session led by auparfum.com  last week. We had a 3-hour session evaluating 20 iconic French fragrances, comparing the original versus current formulation. Amongst them was Femme by Rochas…Immerging ourselves in the core of fragrance creation and sharing perspectives on sensorial creative paths with such experts was total pure bliss!

Back home I browsed my library and picked some books about Femme (Parfums de légende, Le livre du parfum, Une vie au service du parfum par E. Roudnitska). I also found in my collection a small sample dating back to the 90’s (the Olivier Cresp version) and started to wander…

Roasted plums: I woke up this morning and wanted to bake something inspired by Femme. With the plums season starting, this was the perfect timing. I roasted the plums in a caramel spiced up with cinnamon and cardamom. I sprinkled some osmanthus petals  for a very fruity and sexy aroma. I served with a osmanthus and earl grey (bergamot) cream …

 

rochas3Like a fragrance, this dessert aroma will evolve with time. After baking the plums became blond .. and some hours later they became purple. If you can resist, save some for the day after. All aromas will have infused perfectly…

rochas5

Recipe for 4

1 pound of plums, 120 g de sucre+ 1 tbsp, 250 g of flour, 100g +25 g of butter , 3 cardamom seeds, 1/2 tbsp of cinnamon, osmanthus petals

For the cream :  30 cl of almond milk, 1 tbsp of earl grey tea, 1 ss of osmanthus petals, 1 egg, 2 tbsp of tapioca starch, 2 ss of spicy caramel diluted in water

Crust : I sweetened it with the spicy caramel that I prepared first and to which I added 25 g of butter. Add all ingredients for the crust. Bake it 15′ in the oven at medium temperature. Then set the plums cut in quarter. Sprinkle with the diluted caramel et some osmanthus petals. Pursue the baking for 20 minuts. 

Cream : Infuse the osmanthis and earl grey in the almond mild. Filter. Add the egg yolk, sugar and tapioca; Let simmer until desired consistancy. 

Enjoy! I hope you will get to sniff this fragrance (and if possible in the original versions). Come back and tell me what you think!

Share! 

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Magic cake (3 layers) matcha-rapsberries

[LOVE TIP]  First mushrooms, first figs, first root vegetables.. and first soups are coming! Hence I could have posted on a celeriac-horns of plenty purée, a delicious bowl of banh canh (the Vietnamese version of udon).. but I couldn’t pass the current serious buzz on “magic” cake : one batter, 3 layers with different textures :  dense custard, onctuous cream and airy sponge cake.. How tempting is that? And how magic is that? :)

For all the lazy ones and/or the undecisive ones (“what should I pick on the menu? You!- go ahead..”) and/or  the 3in1 fans (why do you think BB cream-CC cream-.. ZZ cream are so successful?), this is THE cake to try. Plus it requires only 15′ of setting up for 3 hours of rest. Isn’t it an eligible activity for the we?

One of the funniest part of this cake, is that you can bake it with some vanilla but you also get to customize flavors to your tastes. Options are endless.. I am thinking of pandan coconut, matcha rapsberries, black sesame and strawberries, osmanthus and yellow peaches, coconut and banana, rose pistachio, well… at this stage you ‘ve guessed I’m always the last to order in a restaurant! Matcha and rapsberries are going to make it for a first run !

Recipe (6-8 ). 15′ of preparation, 1h of baking, 3h of rest in the fridge

4 eggs, 125 g of butter, 100 g of brown sugar, 3 ts of matcha powder diluted in a ss of water,  1 ts of vanilla extract, 120 g of flour, 50 cl of milk , 100 g of rapsberries, 1 pinch of salt , 1 mold of 20 cm diameter covered with baking paper

1. Preheat the oven at 6. Melt the butter

2. Whisk the eggs whites with the pinch of salt. Separately whisk the egg yolks with the sugar.

3. Incorporate to the yolks -in this order- : melted butter, matcha and vanilla, flour and milk. Then carefully add the whipped eggs without breaking them. They should float at the surface of the batter which is quite liquid. Don’t worry, this is normal.

4. Pour half of the batter in the mold. Add the rapsberries and then the rest of the batter

5. Bake for 50′ at 5-6 without convection heat or else diminish the baking time by about 15′. The cake is ready when the center is still shaking… If you overbake it you will loose the cream layer so don’t hesitate to check and shake your mold… Once ok, retrieve from the oven, set aside and after one hour you can store it in the fridge for 2 more hours. You could prepare this magic cake the day ahead, even better !

As it was a first, I had to extend the baking time twice because my oven was not hot enough for indications at 5… So really you should adapt to your oven specifications, these are really indicative, and sorry for that, but this is the only “critical” part of the magic cake. Then it is sooo good that I found it was really worth the trial! Will definitely bake it with other flavours..

What about you? what do you feel like to try?

 

gateau magique

 

 

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